Itching for an Easy Adventure? Think Belize.

Not to put another thing on your plate. But just in case you're hoping to take a vacation this year, now's the time to start planning, or at least dreaming. Here's my pitch: Go Belize. I know a zillion people might already have told you about it. I know there's press up the wazoo about what a trendy Green destination it is. I've just gotta say, though, that after taking a two-year hiatus from big ticket travel, this trip was not only just what the doctor ordered last Spring. It was probably the best trip we've taken as a family. Here's why:

1. Logistics are stupid simple. Hop an easy flight to Belize City with a switch in Houston or Dallas (in many cases). Then let those smarty-pants Belizeans take it from there....the resorts work together, picking you up at the airport and getting you back to the next resort driver for the coming leg of your trip. This isn't hoidy-toidy chaffeur stuff...just a smart strategy to get timid tourists off the beach and inland to explore (and spend money in) the rest of the country. To top it off: There's no significant time difference, English is the official language and American dollars are accepted just about everywere. Truly an adventure vacation that doesn't leave you needing a vacation.

2. Belizeans actually seem happy to see us. Call me neurotic, but it's nice traveling to a place where people don't want you dead. Plus, although Belize is relatively poor, the country--unlike many Caribbean islands--has an economy that extends beyond tourism, so you don't have that feeling that everything is hinging on you and your Tourist Dollar. Plus, the tourism economy itself is being developed in a relatively environmentally and culturally responsible way. In short: You don't feel guilty vacationing here. You might actually feel like you're doing something good.

3. There's plenty to keep culture vultures happy. Archaeological ruins, along with excellent, government-licensed guides, are everywhere. Bonus: Unlike a number of other ancient sites, many of these are in lush jungle, so you're not burning up under the blazing sun. If you're really hot on ruins, Tikal (in Guatemala) is an easy day trip from Belize's popular Cayo region.

4. There's outdoor adventure up the wazoo. Sure, you've heard about the diving and snorkeling. But inland is a wonderland, too: We canoed through pitch-black caves used by the ancients for human sacrifice (the skeletons are still there); we zipped off on airboats into the night and helped preservationists capture and tag crocodiles; we woke at dawn to the screech of howler monkeys congregating over our cabin; we hung out with a brigade of bat researchers at our lodge at Lamanai and actually hung with the bats, too. Who needs Disney's thrill rides when real thrills await?

5. The country is compact. You really can get a taste of everything without getting all "planes, trains, and automobiles" about it. We spent three nights at a far flung river outpost in the jungle, three nights in the mountains and three nights on the beach near the second largest reef on earth. Not for even a minute did we feel rushed, overwhelmed or harried. You can also hole up at one spot, do some day excursions and be perfectly happy.

6. There are amazing and affordable places to stay. Belize has its share of budget and backpacky accommodations. But it also has a wealth of gorgeous, comfortable and unique resorts that meld beautifully with their surrounding culture and ecosystems. These places aren't cheap by any shot of the imagination. But many, if not most, offer packages that include excursions, activities and meals, which makes it easy to budget for your trip. All said and done, we spent less on this trip than we did on a 10-day vacation at the Basin Harbor Resort in Vermont two years ago. And it was a fabulous and and less costly alternative to the Galapagos trip we've long dreamed about but will likely never be able to afford.

Want details on where we stayed and what we did? Stay tuned for Part II, coming soon.

The Next Best Thing to Eating Naked

Blink and you'll miss it. I'm not talking about the state of my newly organized, freshly scoured, and flotsam-purged third-floor office. I'm talking about fig season. Fig season??? If the only word that comes to mind when you hear the word "fig" is "Newton," you're probably saying, "Big whoop Peg! I'd rather come take a look at your new filing system." 

But if you happen to be among the culinary cognscenti who understand just how luscious, unctuous, and utterly sensual a fresh mission fig can be on a late summer afternoon, you're nodding your head knowingly. You blush just thinking about how that velvet skin gives way to your gentle nibble, revealing wildly pink, honey-sweet flesh. Your heart beats just a little faster as you imagine the titillating crunch of tiny seeds, as the fig's heart slides satisfyingly over your palate and down your throat. You can feel yourself reaching for another tender orb, wanting, needing to experience it all again. And fast....since the magic time when figs arrive at the markets in late summer is over faster than a first kiss. (There's a crop in springtime, but I always miss it. And the summer crop supposedly ends in mid-October, but I am seldom able to find them so late.)

If you're not yet a fig fan, consider this your wake up call. Run out and hunt down whatever vendor is smart enough to sell them--your local greenmarket is a great option, my local King's also sells them for a royal ransom. Sure, you can rinse 'em and eat 'em just like that. But figs are so wondrous because of the way they make other foods sing. For breakfast, I chunk them up, fold them into thick Greek yogurt, and sit out on my deck pretending I'm in Santorini. Sliced, they are the star of the most sophisticated dessert in my repertoire: a fig-and-lemon mascarpone tart in a cornmeal rosemary crust. And notched at the top and drizzled with honey, fresh lemon juice and fruity olive oil, they are the cornerstone of an appetizer that guest after guest at my home--die-hard fig lovers and virgins alike--have variously raved about as "a salad that the best restaurants could charge big bucks for," "crazy, insanely delicious," and "so obscenely yummy it should be eaten in private." I still favor the name that came from its creator, Jamie Oliver: "The Easiest, Sexiest Salad in the World." It really is crazy simple. It showcases some of the best foodstuffs on the planet. And after you make it once, you needn't follow the recipe at all. Give it a try and I promise--you'll get lucky, even if you manage to keep your clothes on.

Fresh Fig, Mozzarella and Prosciutto Salad

6 ripe figs, black Mission preferable (not too ripe; you don't want them to be super mushy) 

6 slices of prosciutto (splurge on good di Parma or something similar--a little goes a long way and this recipe is so simple, it's all about the quality of the ingredients). 

1/2 pound fantastic mozzarella, torn into strips (I get mine from my local Italian grocer while it's still warm and practically pulsating; you can also do very well with a hunk of beautiful buffalo mozzarella. Just don't use that rubbery stuff from the supermarket.)

Healthy handful of green or purple basil

For the Honey and Lemon Juice Dressing

1 Tbsp good honey

6 Tbsps extra virgin olive oil

3 Tbsps lemon juice

salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Putting It All Together:

Cut a criss-cross in the tops of the figs, but not quite to the bottom, and then, using your thumb and forefinger, squeeze the base of the fig to reveal the inside.

Place the figs on a beautiful serving plate and weave the slices of prosciutto around and among the figs.  Intersperse this perty arrangement with strips of mozzarella and the ripped up basil. Drizzle honey, making sure each fig has some in the the middle, then sprinkle the olive oil, lemon juice, and salt and pepper over all. Or mix all the dressing ingredients together in a bowl and season, to taste, then drizzle everything with the honey-and-lemon-juice dressing. 

Go nuts.

Forget the old "Boil and Butter"...Get Those Artichokes on the Grill!

Just got back from my extended family's annual Lake George camping trip. If you know me just a little, you know that this excursion is a pretty kooky one, about which I've written, joked, grimaced, and reminisced relatively often. If you don't know me too well, basically imagine 11-15 Jerseyites (and ex-Jerseyites plus one pure-blood westerner) on a 1/2-mile long island in the middle of an Adirondack lake, with a couple of outhouses, a stone firepit, a handful of tents, and copious amounts of Deep Woods Off, sunblock, bacon and vodka---and you've basically got a picture of what life is like during the two family weeks we've spent there each summer over the past 52 years.

Now, up at the Lake, division of labor is serious business. My brother John is the wood, fire and fishing guy. My sister-in-law Julie is the only one kind enough to pay attention to the gaggle of mud-covered juveniles running wild around us. My sister Fred, our group's very own untouchable, cleans the outhouse. My parents worry about the weather and make cocktails. The kids haul buckets of water from the lake and chop kindling. And I have, over the years, taken over the role from my mom of grocery shopper (via boat) and cook. All of this makes for a pretty darned efficient and fight-free environment. Though I suspect we'd each be up sh&*t's creek if left on the island to survive on our own.

Anyway, people are always very curious about how I cook for 14 odd people for 14 days without the benefit of electricity or running water. More often than not, my friends muse about the gourmet feasts I must be able to innovate with nothing but an open fire and the great outdoors to inspire me. And my answer is the same: Food up at he Lake is basically calories. It provides energy so we can do all the other crap that needs to get done, like hauling wood, running up Black Mountain every morning, and chasing rattle snakes off the campsite.

Sure, my siblings and I went through a period where we tried to prove our parents wrong. We hauled up special spices and did our best Bobby Flay impressions. But after hours spent hovering over misbehaving flames, washing too many pots, and cowering in front of singed disasters (my pitch-black-but-raw country pork ribs come to mind), we've all arrived back at that sensible place that tells us to stick with what's easy, fast, and tasty. That means a pretty predictable rotation of steak, burgers, spaghetti, tacos, and iceberg lettuce salads.

There have been some notable additions over the years, however...dishes where the finished product exceeds the sum of its very few parts and still manages to get us out from under the kitchen tarp in a jiff. Case in point: My brother John's recipe for grilled artichokes, which he imported to the island two summers ago. I swear to you, once I tasted artichokes from the grill, I haven't once considered returning to my boiling ways and never even entertain the idea of dipping those delicious leaves in butter. Certainly, you can tackle this dish over an open fire like we do up at the Lake. But it's easier (and better for your complexion) if done on your tame little backyard grill. Give these a try. And let me know what you think.

John's Grilled Artichokes

Artichokes (figure on 1 per person; nice, fresh ones generally feel heavy for their size, sport tightly packed leaves, and have plump, non-shriveled stems)

Salt and Pepper
Exra Virgin Olive Oil
Fresh Squeezed Lemon Juice

Put a large cauldron of water on to boil or, if a you're a steamer-type of person, set up a steamer large enough to accomodate your artichokes.

While the water heats, prepare the artichokes. If you've never wrestled with these critters before, be brave. I'll walk you through it....the pictures here should help. First, give them a wash. Next, use a sturdy pair of scissors to clip the tips off of the bigger, visible leaves. Once the outer leaves are de-tipped, you'll have the delicate inner leaves sticking up from the center in a point. Use a sturdy knife to just whack off the whole pointy cone and discard what you've cut off. Finally, cut the bottom off the stem (if your artichokes still have theirs). This part of the artichoke, especially if it's a big artichoke, is pretty tasty, sort a continuation of the heart. Sometimes, though, they can be a little bitter. Just put them aside later if they are.

Now, once your water is boiling, drop the artichokes into the boiling water or put them in to steam for 15 minutes. While they are cooking, spray your grill with some Pam so the artichokes won't stick later and THEN heat up the grill. If you have one of those veggie grates that you can lay on top of your grill grate, go ahead and use it. No reason not to play it safe. As for how high to heat the grill? I'm not exactly picky about the setting since, as mentioned, I'm usually doing this over an eyebrow-singing fire. I'd say a medium fire is fine.

After about 15 minutes of boiling or steaming, your artichokes should be almost, but not completely, cooked. It's important not to overcook them at this point because they will fall apart on the fire. And if you undercook them, the heart may still be hard when you take them off the grill. The goal is for a knife or cooking fork to be able to pierce through the artichoke with just a little resistance.

Take your artichokes out from the cooking water and set them on a towel for a few minutes (go ahead and squeeze your lemons and wash your cooking pot while they cool. ) Now, use a sharp knife to cut each arichoke in half lengthwise. Once that's taken care of, your next job is to take out the hairy pokey stuff from the center. Here's how: Using that sharp knife, make a nice shallow smiley-face-shaped cut right along the line where the heart ends and the thistles begin (see picture. ) Then, use a melon baller, measuring spoon or plain old teasopoon to scoop out all the hairy stuff and tiny leaves above that cut line. No leaves that are too small and spiny to eat should be left.

Whew. Now that that's done, just brush the cut side of the artichokes with olive oil, and sprinkle them lovingly with salt and pepper. Lay them cut side up on the grill (close grill if you're not using an open fire) and cook for 10 minutes. Then flip them so they're cut side down and cook for another 5-10+ minutes, or until they are nice and crispy and and nut brown in spots.

Okay. Now lay these babies out on a platter. Drizzle with olive oil and lots of fresh lemon juice. Devour. Mmmmmmmmm.

Looking For Close-to-Home Adventures This Summer? Click Here.

Okay, here's the big, exhausted sigh. Siiiigggggghhhhhh. Or however you spell the sound that basically captures the "I'm so pooped I can't bring myself to stand up and I can't believe we actually made it to the summer and before I know it I'll have to start making lunches and badgering kids about homework so I'd better make the most of this supposed summer break."

Maybe you don't even feel that way. But if you've got kids in the house--and haven't been able to con them into spending 8 weeks at summer camp like my parents did with me and my sibs--I'll bet you're looking for things to do with them over the coming steamy weeks.

This is just my friendly little reminder for you to CHECK OUT THE SERIES I WROTE LAST SUMMER. There are numerous blog entries covering everything from hikes in NJ to bike rides on the West Side to evening outings in the Meat Packing District. And all suggestions are all affordable and kid friendly. I'll be making more entries as I go this season. But for now, check out what I already have--you'll see a full listing on my home page on the right side, somewhere below my profile picture and the email subscription box. And please, please feel free to post any suggestions that you might have. I'm always eager to discover new adventures in the area.

P.S. I don't quite know how to correct it now, but Buddahbar, which is mentioned in "To Hell With the Hard Rock: Take the Kiddies to Buddah Bar" blog, is now a similar spot but with a new name. It's called Ajna Bar.

Need Party Food? Be a Genius. Make This.

It’s that time of year. School is winding down, graduation parties are kicking in, bbq’s are getting into gear. And we all stand in our kitchens, scratching our heads about what to contribute to all those potluck parties etched in our calendars. Right here is a recipe that you’ll kiss me for. This cilantro shrimp appy from some old issue of Gourmet (may she RIP) is not only super delicious and makes everyone believe you’re a genius cook. It’s got all the right elements that make it perfect for a party bring with. It’s a snap to make (so you can devote more time to putting on your false eyelashes). It feels a little special, since pink little crustaceans are in the picture. It’s waistline friendly, since it doesn’t have all the mayo, sour cream and other artery busters that plague most party appetizer platters. And it can be served warm or at room temp, so you can make it at home, dump it onto a pretty dish when you arrive, and let it sit out on the table ‘til the last little shrimp vanishes. Don’t count on that taking too long, mind you. I don’t call this dish Gone Light Lightning Cilantro Shrimp for nothing. For the first dozen times I made this, I think I got to taste about three. Most of the time, they disappeared before I got my coat off. My kids actually love these shrimp so much that I am perpetually slapping their hands while I’m cooking to stop them from snitching. I stave off a full fledged mutiny by making this dish even when there isn’t a party. To stretch it from appy to main course, I whip up the recipe, then pour out the shrimp and some sauce onto a pile of angel hair pasta or thin rice noodles, toss it all up and holler “dinner!” Problem solved. Note: The original recipe calls for 1 pound of shrimp but that is a lot of work for such a skimpy output of food. I’ve found that the marinade can easily accommodate two pounds of shrimp or perhaps a bit more. You can also use half the marinade for one pound of shrimp. Then make it again a few days later with another pound of shrimp for your next shindig.

3 large garlic cloves
1 1/8 tsp. salt
½ cup fresh lime juice
¼ cup sweet orange marmalade
¼ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
4 tbsps. Olive oil
1 tbsp. Soy sauce
½ tsp. red pepper flakes
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 lb. or more large shrimp in shells (21-25 per pound), peeled, tail and first segment of shell left intact, and deveined

optional garnish: fresh cilantro sprigs

Using a large knife, mince and mash garlic to a paste, with 1 tsp. salt. Whisk together garlic paste, lime juice, marmalade, cilantro, 3 tablespoons oil, soy sauce, red pepper flakes, remaining 1/8 teaspoon salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Transfer 1/3 cup mixture to another small bowl or ramekin and reserve for dipping sauce. Combine shrimp with remaining mixture in a large sealable plastic bag and seal bag, pressing out excess air. Marinate shrimp, refrigerated, turning bag once, for 15 minutes.

Drain shrimp and gently pat dry. Heat 1 ½ teaspoons oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over moderately high heat. Add half of shrimp and cook, turning occasionally, until golden brown and just cooked through, about 3 minutes. (It’s tempting to cook all the shrimp at once, but try to resist. It cools down the pan and the shrimp will sort of steam instead of brown.) Transfer shrimp to a platter and cook remaining shrimp in remaining 1 ½ teaspoons of oil in the same manner. Garnish shrimp with cilantro, if desired, and serve with dipping sauce.

The Benefits of Braless Spinning

I was on my cell this morning, explaining to my friend Gail that I did actually intend to go to some work-related event tonight, but that I'd forgotten to RSVP. "I've been dropping balls everywhere," were my last words before I hung up the phone and ran into my local spin studio for my 9:30 class. Only when I warmed up a little and--like always--tore off my sweatshirt, did I realize what other balls I'd dropped this morning: I was still in my pajamas. And as if that wasn't bad enough, I had no bra on. I thought about getting off the bike and sparing everyone in class a rather scary show, but decided to stick it out. Having survived, I share here the hidden benefits of bouncing around a spin class without any support whatsoever:

1) I squeezed some extra mileage out of my tad-too-small pajama top, which is now two sizes larger.

2) I have a renewed appreciation for my humbly endowed chest. If I were built like my sister, I might have blinded myself or even been liable for inflicting grave (and embarrassing) harm on the biker next to me.

3) My erratically bouncing torso was so distracting, no one noticed the cellulite on my ass.

4) I was so busy laughing at my goof, drumming up fodder for this list,and trying to keep my chest under control that my torturous hour of hamster spinning passed like lightning.

5) This whole incident gave me the perfect opportunity to touch base and apologize for not posting this past month. As mentioned, I've been a little busy. And now that I might have to schedule a surgical lift, you might not hear from me until August!

In all seriousness, keep your eyes posted for a great appetizer recipe that will be your new "go to" for all those upcoming, end-of-year pot luck events. I just have to find time to make the darned dish and take pictures. Oh, and to fix my camera, which fell in a river. But that's a whole 'nother story....

Forget Spring Training. Hit the Bronx!

Got Yankee fans in the house? Can't think of what to do while the snow melts and spring sports haven't yet monopolized your weekends? Here's an awesome idea: Pack up the family and head to the Bronx for a behind-the-scenes tour of Yankee Stadium. Maybe you're saying, "Well duh, Peg, we did that when the kids were still growing baby teeth." But maybe, just maybe, you're as clueless as I and the rest of my family was and you have no idea that this opportunity even exists.

We discovered the Yankee Stadium tour back in December while trying to figure out what to do for my older son Ben's family birthday outing. On a whim, I logged on to the Yankees web site--looking for I don't know what. Divine inspiration, maybe. But I noticed a little line on a pull-down menu about "stadium tours." Further reading revealed that the Yanks offer these one-hour adventures through the stadium several times a day, seven days a week during the off season. Tours are also offered during baseball season, but only when the team is on the road. At $20 a head, we figured what the heck. If it turned out to be a real bomb, we'd just head straight for lunch or dinner at Arthur Avenue.

Well, what a great surprise the whole day turned out to be. Without the usual baseball crowds clogging the area, we zipped up to the House that Ruth Didn't Build in just about an hour and parked right next to the stadium. We checked in about 20 minutes in advance and joined a group of about 15 others (ranging from Korean tourists to local fans). There was something eerily wonderful about wandering around that massive new stadium--utterly empty save for some isolated foot steps. We checked out the Yankee Museum first for about 20 minutes and then walked over to Monument Park, a collection of big plaques honoring the most illustrious Yanks. All of that was interesting enough. But then things really got juicy. Our Yankaholic guide (a retired cop)marched us down to the dugout and invited us all to sit right in it (!). We then meandered over to the batting cages and practice rooms, which was way cool. Best of all--we were waltzed right into the Yankee locker room. And let me tell you--that place ain't no tile and metal athlete's foot hatchery. It was so cushy, so fancy, so over the top, it looked more like a high-end gentlemen's club than a place where sweaty athletes have towel fights. Ben was swooning at the very idea of being so close to greatness. I was nearly faint knowing that I was mere feet from where Derek Jeter has actually stood naked. We even got to see what was in Johnny Damon's locker (I assume he's since packed up those cleats and Yankee jerseys).

The tour wound up just around 4, perfect timing for us to get down to Arthur Avenue (Bronx's Littly Italy), park on the street, and snag a table at Roberto's newish pizza trattoria, Zero Otto Nove, which doesn't usually take rezzies and opens for dinner at 5. What a great spot--really pretty, really cozy, with a huge wood-burning pizza oven right in the middle of the dining room. There are lots of great options other than pizza on the menu but the pies really were to die for. I devoured La Riccardo, a crispy crusted beauty topped with butternut squash puree, smoke mozzarella, pancetta, and basil. Noah was in utter bliss over his Patate Salsiccia e Provola, a tasty tangle of sliced potatoes, sausage, and smoked mozzarella. Glance at the menu and you will start salivating. Promise. And dinner won't put a huge dent in your wallet. Really.

And that was the day. Perfect. Weather friendly. Pretty affordable. And truly, truly a hoot. The only downside? I can't imagine doing the tour more than once every many years. So now I'll have to find some other excuse to get up to Zero Otto Nove for that butternut squash pizza.

Wanna Go? Need to Know.
Getting There: It's a snap getting up to Yankee Stadium when no games are on. Go to www.yankees.com, click on the Stadium pull-down menu and you'll see an option for "Getting to the Stadium," which includes public/private transporation info and parking details. There are a couple of parking garages right on River Avenue, as well as some nonmetered street parking.
When to Go: You can reserve spots on the Yankees site through Ticketmaster--seems like openings are pretty scarce at this point, probably because all those baseball fanatacs are getting pumped for the season. If you can't get tickets for now, keep this trip in mind for next winter when you've all got cabin fever and can't figure out what to do with yourselves. We were able to get tickets just a day ahead of time, no problem. As for timing, try, if possible, to get a 3 PM tour time. That will get you out at just the right time to have dinner at Arthur Avenue, which is about a five or ten minute drive away. If you get out earlier, I guess you could also go for lunch or wander around and shop for cheese.
Services/Costs: Each ticket is $20. There might be a surcharge if you use Ticketmaster. There's also a kids price of $15, but it never seems to be available. I noticed that you can also bring a group of kids for a tour of the stadium--that brings the per kid price down to $8. What a concept for a birthday. You could also book an actual birthday package for $40 a head for kids 14 and under, which includes lunch, etc. at the on-premises Hard Rock Cafe, but that might be a little steep if you're bringing more than just a handful of buds.
What to Bring: If you come when it's cold out, dress warmly. If it's damp, you might even want to pack an umbrella. There's coverage from the elements for the most part, but the place is, well, an outdoor stadium.
Fear Factor: None, unless you get caught in rush hour traffic. But I'm assuming you'd be coming on a weekend, so that shouldn't be a huge problem.
In the Area: Arthur Avenue is a natural landing place after a Yankee tour--much better, I think, than overpaying for a meal at one of the chain places on premises. (www.arthuravenuebronx.com). The Arthur Avenue Market (www.arthuravenue.com for hours, info), if it's open, is a great place to kill time if you have it before or after your meal--it's sort of a covered bazaar with a million cheese, meat, veggie, olive oil, and god-knows-what other types of Italian vendors. There are even guys handrolling cigars in there. There are also about a zillion bakeries, cheese shops, ravioli shops, and more lining Arthur Avenue and the streets that radiate from it. Roberto's, probably the finest restaurant in the area, is a great bet--but snagging a table can be tricky and it's not exactly a cheap family dinner. There are other popular spots--Emilia's and Dominick's come to mind--but they are more along the lines of the red-sauce-and-melted cheese tourist traps you find in Manhattan's Little Italy. I think Zero Otto Novo--an offshoot of Roberto's--is a terrific option. It's less expensive and not quite as crowded as Roberto's, but the food is quite yummy. Do get there at 5 PM if you come on a Saturday and don't want to languish on a line. Line ups, after all, are for baseball teams (and criminals, I guess). For info on both restaurants: www.roberto089.com.